Melbourne Neighbourhood Guide:  Lygon Street, Carlton

Nestled in the heart of Melbourne, Lygon Street stands as a testament to the city’s rich history and cultural diversity. This bustling street holds a significant place in Melbourne’s past, witnessing the city’s growth and transformation over the years. Once a hub for the Italian community, Lygon Street proudly wears the title of Melbourne’s “Little Italy,” preserving the traditions and flavors of its heritage.  Known for its trattorias, pizzerias, and gelaterias, Lygon Street calls to foodies to go on a journey through its diverse culinary landscape. From mouthwatering pasta dishes to delectable cannoli, the street boasts a range of options that cater to every taste bud. 

Historical Background

Founded during the Victorian Gold Rush in 1851, Carlton has a history deeply rooted in Melbourne’s development. Lygon Street evolved from a humble street to a key player in Melbourne’s cultural narrative. Beginning as a focal point for Italian immigrants in the mid-20th century, the street has transformed, mirroring the broader shifts in Melbourne’s cultural and social fabric.  It now has many cultures and cuisines.  

By the 1930s, Carlton faced challenges as many homes were deemed slums, mainly occupied by impoverished residents. Notably, in 1927, a dramatic event unfolded on Barkly Street when Australian gangster Squizzy Taylor engaged in a gunfight with his rival, John “Snowy” Cutmore, resulting in Taylor’s subsequent demise at St Vincent’s Hospital.  In the mid-1900s, Lygon Street became a stronghold for Melbourne’s Italian community, earning its moniker as “Little Italy.” As the community flourished, so did the street, witnessing the rise of iconic Italian eateries that would later become integral to the city’s gastronomic identity.  

Carlton’s True Crime Stories

Beyond its culinary significance, Lygon Street played a pivotal role in fostering a sense of community for residents and newcomers alike. It became a melting pot where cultures converged, contributing to Melbourne’s vibrant multicultural landscape.

The 1970s marked a period of activism, with three trade union green bans influencing the landscape.  By the 90s Carlton was quite an affluent area where real estate was expensive.  During this time we also became aware of the Melbourne underbelly wars.  One group that was involved was known as the Carlton Crew and although the crew had been formed back in the 70s it was twenty years later that the war became public knowledge.  A book about those years called Underbelly by John Silvester and Andrew Rule was later made into a television series. Thankfully now, it has quietened down in Carlton.  

Lygon Street, with its blend of history and contemporary allure, continues to be a living testament to Melbourne’s evolution, inviting all who wander its pavements to discover the layers of its rich past.

Culinary Delights

Lygon Street, a feast for the senses, carries the delicious legacy of its Italian roots in every corner. This culinary journey began in the mid-20th century when Italian immigrants made this street their home. Today, it stands as a gastronomic hub, celebrating the rich flavors and traditions of Italy and beyond.

Iconic Italian restaurants line the street, each telling a tale of family recipes and culinary passion. From classic trattorias to charming cafes, Lygon Street offers a diverse array of dining options. For a taste of traditional Italian coffee culture, Brunetti’s is a beloved café serving up aromatic espresso and delectable pastries.

Gelato enthusiasts will find joy in the numerous gelaterias dotting the street. Pidapipo Gelateria is a local favorite, boasting a variety of authentic gelato flavors. The art of crafting these frozen delights is a tradition passed down through generations, and visitors can savor the results.

Must-try dishes include the iconic Margherita pizza, a testament to simplicity and quality ingredients. Pasta lovers can indulge in a plate of hearty spaghetti Bolognese or creamy fettuccine Alfredo. I recommend the handmade fresh pasta at Donnini’s. Complete the culinary journey with a scoop of velvety tiramisu-flavored gelato, encapsulating the essence of Italian sweetness. Lygon Street’s culinary landscape, steeped in tradition, invites all to savor the flavors that have become an integral part of Melbourne’s diverse palate.

Multicultural Flavours

Beyond its Italian heritage, Lygon Street unfolds a variety of global flavors, showcasing the multicultural essence of Melbourne. Diners can venture into many culinary experiences, exploring Greek, Spanish and various international cuisines.

For a taste of China, Lagoon offers traditional techniques and combining them with contemporary spins, dishes include kimchi fried rice, stir-fried beef with fried potatoes and charred capsicum or steamed barramundi with shitake mushrooms and pork scratchings. Cheese enthusiasts can savor the delights of Milk the Cow, known for its curated cheeseboard or The Grundlelegend fondue hotpot.

Lygon Street also embraces Japanese cuisine, with spots like Hakata Gensuke serving up several traditional ramen recipes, ranging from the lighter char-siu style across to their signature Yatai Godfire ramen.

Shopping

Lygon Street unfolds as a shopaholic’s paradise with its eclectic mix of boutique shops, fashion outlets, and specialty stores. Dive into the vibrant shoe scene, discovering unique finds at local gems like Watt’s Shoe Store which has been on the corner of Lygon and Grattan streets for over a century. For toys, Poppyshop is a must-visit, generations of families have perused the products at this little toy store on Lygon Street since 1965. You can’t miss The Original Lolly Store with its enticing display window. You’ll be spoilt for choice with the myriad of sweet treats which fill this small shop almost to the brim. Whether you’re into high-end couture or budget-friendly chic, Lygon Street’s shopping district caters to all tastes, ensuring a satisfying spree for every fashionista. Immerse yourself in a world of style, trends, and local designs on this lively Melbourne street.

Cultural and Entertainment Hubs

You can’t mention cultural experiences in Carlton without discussing La Mama Theatre, which promises intimate performances and avant-garde productions, providing a unique cultural experience.  Shows are frequently around the $30-40 mark and you will never know what you may experience.  I highly recommend this groundbreaking and longstanding theatre.

The street comes alive with street performances and festivals, including the annual Lygon Street Festa, where locals and visitors celebrate Melbourne’s diverse culture with music, food, and lively festivities. Keep an eye out for spontaneous performances by local artists, adding a touch of artistry to your stroll.  While you are on a stroll, don’t forget to check out the Melbourne Trades Hall, reputedly the world’s oldest trade union building.

Movie buffs can catch the latest releases at Cinema Nova, a beloved cinema that combines mainstream and independent films in a cozy setting. If you are looking for a music experience look no further than The Curtin Hotel.  It’s not only a hugely important venue in the history of the Melbourne labour movement, but it has celebrated Melbourne’s live music scene. It’s a vital spot for a huge range of local and international musos, and they are fantastic champions of young talent.

Local Hangouts and Parks

Lygon Street extends its charm beyond shopping, offering delightful local hangouts and green spaces. Unwind at Argyle Square, a peaceful park perfect for a leisurely afternoon picnic or relaxation. The square’s serene atmosphere provides a welcome escape from the bustling street. Another area that can be serene is The University of Melbourne. For community vibes, explore Readings Bookstore, a local gem where book lovers can peruse a curated selection.

Insider Tips

For an optimal Lygon Street experience, plan your visit during weekdays when the atmosphere is vibrant and bustling but not too busy. Parking can be a challenge, so consider public transportation with the tram being a convenient choice.

If you are in need of food items to take home, you are in the right place.  Shops such as Donati’s Fine Meats, D.O.C Delicatessen and Gewürzhaus Spice Shop are a foodies heaven. Navigating Lygon Street’s hidden treasures enhances the local experience, offering a glimpse into the authentic, everyday charm that makes this Melbourne neighborhood unique.

Conclusion

Lygon Street, Carlton, embodies a special blend of history, culture and vibrant energy. Its Italian roots, diverse culinary scene and cultural hubs make it a dynamic locale in Melbourne. Whether you’re indulging in delectable Italian cuisine, exploring cultural attractions or enjoying a day of shopping, this street pulsates with the authentic rhythm of the city. With every step, Lygon Street unfolds as a living story, inviting everyone to embrace the local spirit. Lygon Street is another reason why you should visit Melbourne. Stay tuned for more insights into Melbourne’s diverse neighborhoods in our ongoing series.