ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO

The trip from Marrakech to Essaouira was an interesting one.  I had tried to take a bus to Essaouira but found there were no available seats for another two weeks.  So I took a shared taxi with another five Moroccans. It was quite squashed but pleasant enough.

Essaouira, located on the Atlantic coast of Morocco, is a charming port town known for its ancient ramparts, traditional architecture, and laid-back vibe. It offers a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of larger cities, making it an ideal destination for tourists looking to explore Morocco’s unique blend of African and European influences. 

One of the reasons I wanted to visit Essaouira was because Jimi Hendrix spent some time there in the 70s.  I actually searched out the Riad that Hendrix stayed at.  So I booked in and had a wonderful stay.  The name of the accommodation is Riad Al Madina and it was charming with a beautiful courtyard.  The other benefit of visiting Essaouira is that it’s a little cooler than Marrakech so I enjoyed that aspect as well.

Upon arriving in Essaouira, you are greeted by the town’s iconic 17th-century fortifications. These ramparts were built by the Portuguese in the 1600s and later expanded by the Moroccan sultan Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah in the 1700s. They offer panoramic views of the sea, city, and surrounding countryside, making them a popular spot for tourists to take in the sights.  I found the area down by the water very relaxing.  At the end of the day many families gather down by the seaside to catch a glimpse of the beautiful sunset.

THE MEDINA

Inside the walls, Essaouira’s maze of narrow streets and traditional buildings are a photographer’s dream. The city is known for its well-preserved architecture, much of which dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries. Visitors can explore the city’s medina (old town) to see traditional houses with intricate wooden balconies and brightly painted doors. Many of these buildings have been converted into art galleries, souvenir shops, and restaurants, giving the city a vibrant cultural scene.

FOLLOWING IN HENDRIX’S FOOTSTEPS

Essaouira was a popular destination for hippies and other free spirits in the 1960s and 70s, and it was during this time that Hendrix made his way there. The town was known for its laid-back atmosphere, its beautiful beaches, and its vibrant music scene, which included everything from traditional Moroccan music to Western rock and roll.

Hendrix was immediately captivated by Essaouira, and he spent several weeks there soaking up the local culture and jamming with local musicians. He was particularly interested in the music of the Gnawa people, a mystical brotherhood of African musicians who had settled in Essaouira centuries earlier. The Gnawa were known for their hypnotic, trance-like music, which was said to have healing powers.

Hendrix was fascinated by the Gnawa’s music, and he spent many hours listening to them play and learning from them. He even invited some of the Gnawa musicians to join him in the studio, where they recorded several tracks together. These recordings, which have since become legendary, are some of the most unique and innovative music ever produced, blending the traditional rhythms and melodies of the Gnawa with Hendrix’s own unique style.

Hendrix’s time in Essaouira was a formative experience for him, both musically and personally. He later spoke of the profound impact that the town and its people had on him, and how it had expanded his horizons and opened his mind to new possibilities. His visit to Essaouira was also significant in that it helped to bridge the gap between Western rock music and traditional African rhythms, paving the way for future collaborations between musicians from different parts of the world.

CULTURAL INFLUENCES

One of the most unique aspects of Essaouira is its combination of African and European influences. The city was once a major trading port, attracting merchants and travellers from across the world. This rich history is reflected in the city’s architecture, cuisine, and culture. Visitors can sample local dishes like tagine, a traditional stew made with meat, vegetables, and spices, or enjoy fresh seafood straight from the Atlantic.  The food was very flavoursome and good value.

SHOPPING

Another popular activity in Essaouira is shopping. The city is famous for its artisan workshops, where skilled craftsmen create everything from intricate jewellery and ceramics to hand-painted textiles. Visitors can browse the local markets for souvenirs or visit one of the many workshops to see the artisans at work.  Throughout Morocco, lamps are prevalent and beautiful so I consider them a good buy.  There were lots of carved wooden objects as well as ceramics, spices, leather goods, rugs shoes, argan oils and artworks. Make sure you have some cash with you.  Some of the larger shops take card.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

For those interested in exploring the natural beauty of Morocco, Essaouira is the perfect starting point. The city is surrounded by miles of pristine beaches and rolling hills, offering endless opportunities for outdoor activities like hiking, horseback riding, and surfing. The city is particularly famous for its windsurfing, with the Atlantic winds providing ideal conditions for the sport. I feel that Essaouira is for experiencing Morocco at a slower pace.  Take a nice leisurely stroll along the beach or one of the promenades.

FESTIVALS
Essaouira is known for its lively cultural scene. The city is home to a number of music and arts festivals throughout the year, including the Essaouira Gnawa Festival, which celebrates the traditional music of the Gnawa people, and the Essaouira International Film Festival, which showcases the best of international and African cinema.

Some film productions have used Essaouira as its backdrop.  Back in the 50s Orson Welles used this town for his film production of Othello.  Some other productions have been Alexander, Hanna, Tom Clancy’s Jack Ryan, The Kingdom of Heaven and John Wick 3. More recently Games of Thrones used this location for the home of the Army of the Unsullied.

Essaouira is a charming, laid-back port town that offers a unique blend of African and European influences. Its well-preserved architecture, vibrant cultural scene, and stunning natural beauty make it an ideal destination for tourists looking to explore Morocco’s rich history and unique culture. Essaouira is also a center of argan oil production. It has become a tourist attraction due to the tree-climbing goats who are unique to the region, as argan trees are the only type the goats climb.  Whether you’re interested in history, food, art, or nature, Essaouira has something to offer everyone.

Maryanne’s Tips for Visiting Essaouira Embrace the laid-back coastal vibe and take your time exploring the charming medina. Try the local seafood delicacies offered at the bustling fish market and the numerous quaint restaurants. Sharpen your negotiation skills to get the best deals on handicrafts, textiles, and souvenirs in the souks. Engage with the friendly locals, immerse yourself in the Gnaoua music, and witness stunning sunsets over the Atlantic Ocean.