Amman was originally built on seven hills but has now extended to nineteen. It is hard work getting up and down those hills so, depending where you’re heading, you may want to take a taxi. Taxis in Jordan are expensive. There are no train networks in Jordan only taxis, buses and rental cars. From what I have heard rental cars are reasonably priced but you do take your life into your own hands. The driving is pretty crazy. Nobody sticks to lanes. It’s not unusual to see three cars astride in a two lane highway. I have been white knuckled a few times in the taxi with some of their antics. Having said that their system seems to work.
Today I decided to hang out in the downtown area of Amman. I started at the Citadel which sits on the highest jabal (hill) in Amman called Jabal al-Qal’a. Aside from some great sites such as the Temple of Hercules, the Byzantine Church, the Mosque and the Monumental Gateway/Entrance Hall, there were fabulous views of the city.
On the way to Salman’s house he became very quiet and then said ‘I want to ask you personal question’. I said that this was ok. ‘In Australia’, he began, ‘Is it tradition for woman to marry?’ I indicated that most women, yes, do marry, but not all. ‘You are not married’. This was pretty much a statement and because he seemed worried about this I was a little naughty and said that my husband had died. I feel very guilty about this now. At the time I felt that in Jordan it was hard for many people (especially in rural areas) to understand the concept of not getting married. For me to say that I don’t want to get married seemed to worry them. I can understand this as it simply is not part of their culture.
I was woken by the sound of farm animals (roosters and goats) making their morning sounds and got up at about 5.30am to go for a walk. It was still very cold but walking warmed me a little. I couldn’t actually see the sunrise as it was on the other side of the mountain and would have taken me hours to climb over or walk around the mountain. Everywhere there is soft sand that you sink into making walking for me a slow affair. It was wonderful though to watch the sun hit some of the surrounding mountains and then make its way down those mountains as the sun rose.
I had contacted Wild Wadi Rum Desert Adventure website by email and ended up corresponding with a young Bedouin man called Salman. I remember saying at work
‘Guess what I just did at lunchtime?’
No answer.
‘Emailed a Bedouin!’
‘What’s a Bedouin?’, was the answer.
I caught a taxi from Wadi Musa (Petra) to the visitor’s centre at Wadi Rum (it cost JD40 = AUD80) and met Salman who turned out to be a 22 year old Bedouin whose family lived in the Wadi Rum Village. He informed me that the Bedouins don’t really live in Wadi Rum anymore as they have all moved into the village. He was very enthusiastic and told me he had studied at university to become a primary school teacher but had not found work yet. As we drove out into the wadi (valley) my jaw started to drop. It was both immense and beautiful.
I arrived in Amman, Jordan after having no sleep the night before. I’m coming back to Amman so I wasn’t too fussed about falling asleep shortly after checking in to my hotel. It was my birthday and I struggled to stay awake even for dinner which I ended up taking in my room. That night I slept like a baby…
I decided to do a road trip from Dublin into Northern Ireland to check out a couple of Game of Thrones locations. My cousin, Liam in Dublin helped me by sending me directions and I was off on a nice little drive north.
Beginning in the dark ages, Clonmacnoise became a place where Christianity and scholarship prospered and grew. A vast monastic settlement thrived here, with a scriptorium of unequalled craftsmanship, where education, teaching and the arts were revered and where the classics were greatly prized and preserved. Knowledge and learning that went on to be taken to Europe as the Gospels were spread abroad by Celtic Christian monks.
I feel that Ireland is enjoyed best by, not travelling from one attraction to the next, but by meandering and happening upon scenes that are straight from picture postcards. A friend once told me that she felt underwhelmed by Ireland’s scenery compared to Scotland. I asked her where she had been. Dublin, Ring of Kerry, Cliffs of Moher she started to list.
Lost in MayoA peaceful scene in Mayo
That was her problem. She had stuck to the road well travelled. I believe you have to get lost down the back roads to see the true beauty of Ireland. The other day I had intended to visit the Rock of Cashel in Tipperary but made a late start. After revising my plans I decided to head in the opposite direction to Clifden in Mayo instead. I got to a town called Oughterard and had to stop. I wanted to clear my head so I stopped for lunch in a nice little pub there.
I love the Irish mountainsLate afternoon in Mayo on an early November day
Feeling refreshed and rested I headed off but never made it to Clifden. Instead at some point I made a right turn and headed over some mountains and into some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. My photos really don’t do it justice and unfortunately I did start losing some light. But that feeling of meandering over one hill after the other and into valleys with the most beautiful lake scenes was so rewarding.
The Mayo lakes are beautiful at this time of dayLough Mask, County Mayo, IrelandHeading toward Tourmakeady on Lough Mask, County Mayo
Embarking on a journey to Croagh Patrick and Achill Island, County Mayo offers a captivating blend of rugged landscapes, spiritual exploration, and coastal serenity. On the west coast of Ireland Croagh Patrick is very close to the town of Westport, in fact only 8kms away. It was on this mountain that Ireland’s patron saint fasted for 40 days and nights and where he supposedly banished venomous snakes from Ireland. Climbing the mountain, which is 765m high, is an act of penance for thousands of pilgrims on the last Sunday of July (Reek Sunday).
Visitor’s Centre, Croagh PatrickCroagh Patrick from the car park
There is a Visitor’s Centre and opposite the car park is the National Famine Memorial. The trail starts outside the Visitor’s Centre. On this occasion I did not walk up the mountain but I would like to return to do so when in the right mindset.
The track up Croagh Patrick starts outside the Visitor’s Centre
Next I headed off to Achill Island stopping off briefly at Newport, a lovely town with a very nice looking viaduct. I liked the feel of this town.
Newport, County Mayo, IrelandViaduct at Newport
Achill Island covers 55 square miles and is Ireland’s largest off shore island. It is connected to the mainland by a short bridge making it an easy place to get to by car. Dramatic mountains, moors and wonderful beaches made this island a great place to drive around. I stopped off in Keel and walked along the beach. There was a camping park and shops nearby. I thought it was really beautiful down at the beach. Keel seemed to be the main town on the island and would make a great holiday spot. I would also say if you like hiking that Achill would be a fantastic place to explore.
I love travelling solo, especially in Ireland. It makes me feel special. Those times when I am on public transport abroad and I don’t speak the local language and nobody there speaks English, this makes me feel unique. I love that people still try to help me. I also love that other English speakers are very willing to start up a conversation. This is something I don’t think would happen with such frequency if I wasn’t travelling solo. Opportunities seem to present themselves as well…
